The zipper is a commonly used fastener today and also the bane of many former home economics sewing students. Zippers are used to fasten clothing, suitcases, bags and even space suits!
Elias Howe patented an early form of the zipper using a drawstring in 1851 but never promoted or manufactured it. The zipper reappeared in 1893 with inventor Whitcomb L. Judson at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago with a series of hooks on one side and eyelike parts on the other with the addition of a metal slider that opened and closed it. The slider was removable and could be easily lost, which would leave one stuck! The fastener tended to pop open and was pricey. The zipper did not catch on until the 1900’s when machinery was developed that clamped the hooks and eyes to a tape that allowed it to be inserted into garments or footwear.
In 1917, Gideon Sundback, a Swedish American design engineer, developed a method for a fastener that used interlocking “teeth” and had an attached slider for opening and closing. This patent for the “Separable fastener” was the start of the modern zipper still in use today.
The term “zipper” was coined by B.F. Goodrich Company, which used the fastener in rubber boots. Goodrich attempted to trademark the term “zipper” but lost, as the word was in common use by the time they applied. In addition to the boots, early zippers were also used in tobacco pouches. Zippers were also used in children’s clothes in the 20’s and 30’s to encourage independence, as dressing was easier for little fingers to accomplish with a zipper rather than buttons.
Zippers began to make an appearance in adult clothing first in work clothes in the late 20’s and early 30’s. Men’s clothing manufacturers began using zippers in pants, although it was after World War II before they became the dominant form of pant closure.
There are several types of zippers used today:
• Coil zippers are the most used zipper type today and are made of polyester.
• Invisible zippers have the teeth hidden behind a fabric tape. These zippers are most used in dresses and skirts.
• Metal zippers have metal teeth attached to a tape and are commonly found in jeans and other garments where high strength is required for the fastening.
Ask most sewers about inserting a zipper and you will undoubtedly get a few grimaces and groans. Zippers CAN be easy to insert into a project as you are making it but replacing a zipper can be difficult. Most all sewing machines today include a zipper foot with the accessories. Some of the feet snap on the shank; some are a separate foot with shank and are adjustable. The adjustable zipper foot is easier to work with as you have greater flexibility to adjust the foot to fit the zipper tape area.
There are several ways to stitch a zipper into a project. The lapped zipper, commonly used in clothing, has a flap of fabric concealing the zipper. The centered zipper is similar to the lapped except there are two flaps covering the zipper, which is centered between them. The invisible zipper application requires a special foot and the invisible zipper. An exposed zipper is commonly found on purses, luggage, coats, quilted vests, shoes, etc. where the zipper teeth are “exposed” with no fabric covering them. Often, decorative and various colored zippers are used with this application. Some zippers are sold packaged with instructions on how to sew them in. For other types of zipper application, an Internet search can provide helpful videos and tutorials. Zippers come in a wide range of sizes and you can also purchase “zipper by the yard” and make custom sizes; this requires you to attach the slider and create a “stop” at the end of the zipper. This type of zipper is especially useful for upholstery and craft makers.
The major maker of zippers today is the YKK Company, originating in Japan. Talon is another popular manufacturer based in the US and Coats and Clark thread company also sells zippers. Zippers today come in a wide range of colors and materials. Zipper tapes can be very decorative and you can purchase rhinestone-studded zippers as well!
The zipper remains the top favorite fastener for our garments, handbags, luggage, etc. So “Zip It Up” on April 29th to help celebrate National Zipper Day!
-submitted by The Sewing & Vacuum Center
